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These seabirds fly toward cyclones, not away from them
Night falls on Bugio Island, a windswept volcanic outpost in Portugal's remote Madeira archipelago. Waves crash hundreds of feet below steep cliffs where fewer than 200 pairs of the rare Desertas petrel nest in burrows hidden among the rocks. For WHOI scientist Francesco Ventura, postdoctoral investigator in physical oceanography, reaching the birds requires careful footing. Guided only by a headlamp, he navigates the rocky terrain in darkness. As he quietly approaches the nesting burrows, he catches the unmistakable musky scent of seabirds. Ventura reaches into a nest and carefully lifts a petrel from its burrow. The bird feels surprisingly soft and delicate in his hands, its slate-gray feathers concealing long and powerful wings. After a quick health check, he fits each bird with a tiny GPS tracker weighing little more than six paper clips. Ventura returns the birds to their nests and backs away into the night. Weeks later, the petrels return to their nests, and Ventura retrieves the GPS devices. Back in the lab, he downloads the data, which recorded each bird's location every couple of hours, offering a rare glimpse into the secret lives of these elusive seabirds. The devices revealed journeys that were more extraordinary than anyone...